uma talks · episode 1 · 42 minutes

cosmetic doctor Jantien and skin therapist Adelien in an open conversation about skin quality, the power of prevention and the fine line between care and overtreatment.

who are Adelien and Jantien?

Adelien has been a skin therapist at UMA Clinic for more than five years, working every day to improve the skin from the outside. Jantien is a cosmetic doctor at UMA, specialising in injectables and regenerative treatments. In this episode, they bring their expertise together for an honest, science-based conversation about skin health.

why skin quality matters so much

Research from 2021 shows that skin quality is one of the most important factors in how attractive and healthy someone is perceived to be. It’s not the absence of wrinkles, but the tone, evenness, texture and firmness of your skin that shape how you come across to others. Glowing, healthy skin is instantly associated with vitality.

This research fits a broader trend in aesthetics: people don’t necessarily want to look younger, they want to age in a healthy, fresh way. Jantien sees this shift every day in her consultations, with more and more people asking for treatments that improve rather than change.

“We’re really seeing a shift towards the regenerative now. Using your own cells, your own body, to keep your skin as healthy as possible.” – Jantien, cosmetic doctor at UMA Clinic

collagen: what it is and when it declines

Collagen is the protein that keeps your skin firm and full. From the age of 25, production already starts to slow down, leaving the skin thinner, looser and less elastic. And it’s not just found in your skin: collagen is also present in blood vessel walls and connective tissue throughout the body.

That’s why treatments at UMA largely focus on stimulating your own collagen production, rather than adding it from the outside. It’s a fundamental difference: putting your body itself to work, instead of permanently adding something.

sunscreen: still the best investment

UV radiation is the number one cause of skin ageing and skin cancer. UVB causes visible sunburn, but UVA penetrates deeper, damaging collagen and causing cell damage that only becomes visible years later. Adelien points out that UV also passes through glass, which explains why lorry drivers develop significantly more wrinkles and pigmentation spots on their window side.

Choose at least SPF 30 and use it every day, even when it’s cloudy or you’re spending the day indoors. SPF 50 gives slightly more protection, but the psychological effect of SPF 30 (reapplying more often) can sometimes make it more valuable. Not sure which product to buy? Always go for a sunscreen for sensitive skin, without alcohol or perfume.

“If I have to choose between an expensive anti-ageing cream and sunscreen, I always choose sunscreen. Prevention is better than cure.” — Adelien, skin therapist at UMA Clinic

vitamin c as an antioxidant: what works and what doesn’t

Vitamin C in a high concentration (10 to 20%) protects your skin against free radicals released by UV radiation, blue light, air pollution and smoking. It slows the breakdown of collagen and elastin, softens fine lines and evens out skin tone. Paired with SPF, it’s the most powerful daily prevention routine you can build.

When buying, look for pure L-ascorbic acid (the active form), a concentration of 10 to 20%, and a pH below 3.5. If the pH is stated on the packaging, that’s a good sign. Cosmetics brands are allowed to refer to scientific research on vitamin C without their own formula being proven effective, so don’t be misled by generic claims.

polynucleotides: the salmon sperm facial

Polynucleotides are the building blocks of DNA and have been used in wound healing for decades. Now they’re making their way into the cosmetic world, best known as the ‘salmon sperm facial’. Injected into the skin, they prompt fibroblasts to produce collagen. At the same time, they attract water molecules for extra hydration and a more even skin tone.

It’s not a quick fix. Jantien recommends at least three treatments, three weeks apart, for the best result. Polynucleotides are suitable for under the eyes, the face, the neck and even the hands. And unlike many other injectables, there’s no long recovery period.

how skin therapy and cosmetic medicine work together

In the clinic, Adelien and Jantien actively complement each other. Skin therapy treats the surface: pigmentation, red veins, texture. Jantien’s injectables work deeper in the skin. When Adelien performs a laser treatment, Jantien can follow up with a booster injection that shortens recovery time and enhances collagen stimulation.

Collagen activated by the laser gets an extra boost from the boosters that are already at work. The result? Two disciplines that reinforce each other, for better and longer-lasting results.

taking collagen supplements: does it work?

The science is mixed, and many studies are funded by manufacturers. Independent studies show that oral collagen supplements can have minimal but measurable effects on hydration and elasticity, provided you take them daily and consistently over a longer period.

Good to know: when you take collagen, it’s digested into amino acids, absorbed into the bloodstream and only then used as a building block. A healthy, varied diet provides those same building blocks. Collagen in creams or via injections has no proven effect.

key takeaways from this episode

• Skin quality (tone, evenness, firmness) matters more than wrinkles in how attractive and healthy you appear.
• Collagen declines from the age of 25; stimulating treatments are more effective than adding it from the outside.
• Sunscreen (at least SPF 30, daily) is the most effective anti-ageing investment you can make.
• Vitamin C serum (L-ascorbic acid, 10–20%, pH below 3.5) is the perfect partner to your SPF.
• Polynucleotides stimulate collagen production and hydration, and are suitable for several areas.
• Skin therapy and cosmetic medicine reinforce each other for better and faster results.